The shrine of Saint James the Apostle in Spain's Santiago de Compostela has been a pilgrim destination for more than 1,000 years. Most pilgrims take the Camino Frances, or French road, to Santiago, making it one of the most-traveled pilgrimage routes in history.
I walked the Camino Frances in 2002, starting in the French village of St. Jean Pied-de-Port. It took me six weeks to cover the 500 miles to Santiago, a journey I hoped would help me transition from an all-consuming job to retirement. In fact, the Camino captured my heart. Like many pilgrims, I promised to return.
Last summer, I made my way back to Spain to volunteer in one of the many refuges that offer simple accommodation for pilgrims along the way. I joined friends to work at the Refugio Gaucelmo in the tiny village of Rabanal del Camino. We functioned as innkeepers, hosts, guides, cooks, washroom attendants and attentive listeners to each day's wave of pilgrims.
In keeping with the spirit of hospitality that imbues the Camino de Santiago, there is no charge for staying at Gaucelmo; pilgrims simply donate what they can. The refuge has bunks for 46, but no one is ever turned away. During my two-week stay, more than 1,000 pilgrims from 24 countries bedded down with us, as many as 85 per night.
Following my stay in Rabanal del Camino, I made a second pilgrimage to Santiago, this time taking the less-traveled route known as the Via de la Plata. The original pilgrim route to the tomb of Saint James, it follows the ancient Roman road from Seville north to Santiago. Starting in historic Zamora, I spent three weeks walking the final 250 miles to Santiago. This more solitary and challenging Camino took me through isolated villages and rugged scenery. The stillness and beautiful vistas contributed to a rich and rewarding journey. When I walked into Santiago de Compostela on Sept. 6, it was with joy and gratitude for my health and good fortune - and with another promise to return someday.
